-
Always use a tripod - unless your photos don't matter! - Feb2003
If you
are shooting happy snaps or you don't care about how sharp your images are,
then hand hold, but if you are after the sharpest image possible with some
control over depth of field, then shoot with a good Quality
Manfrotto tripod. It is possible to get image
sharpness and enlargement potential rivalling hand held medium format when
using a tripod with 35mm equipment. I always use a tripod - even when I walk
into places like Milford! Pictured below, the
055NAT2 - a compromise suitable for
medium format when Bushwalking! Go for the lightweight
056 head as well! When I am not walking
long distances, I use the 055 and the ProBall Head. Its a bit heavier but
solid as a rock!
Also see Bean Pod below....
-
Always carry a Polarizing filter. - Feb2003
Polarizing filters enhance
the colours in most daylight photography - with some restrictions... Shooting
either with or against the sun renders a polariser useless. The maximum effect
of a polariser is at right angles to the sun. Great care should be taken to
adjust the polariser to give the optimum effect, not necessarily the greatest
polarisation. Extreme care is required when shooting with Ultra Wide angle
lenses as hot spots easily occur. Some modern cameras have metering systems
which require a special version called a circular polariser. Consult your
manual or a reputable dealer to secure the right filter for your gear. I
recommend HOYA as a
they make an excellent product and make multicoated Circular polarisers. Note
the Hot Spot in the Image below! OOOOOP's - My defence for the image below is
that it was taken with a Linhof Technorama which is not SLR, but has a
small viewer to compose the image.... You are always guessing a bit with this
kind of arrangement!
No such excuses with an SLR 35mm camera though..... because you can see
what you are going to get!
-
Invest in a good Bag. - Feb2003
You have spent many dollars (sometimes
thousands) buying good equipment, so don't risk damaging it by putting it in
an inferior bag. I use Lowe Pro because I
believe that they make the best Photographic bags available. Their Photo
Trekker AW is a magnificent device making comfortable work out of carrying a
range of bodies and lenses and other assorted gear over long distances. It
also is the right size to pass through most airlines hand luggage testers -
but you might need to watch the weight! Stay away from the Super Trecker if
you travel a lot by plane as it WONT fit through the standard luggage test
device! If you are going to check your gear, always use a sturdy lockable case
like a Pelican and if possible disguise it by placing it inside an old soft
sided case.
-
Don't forget the spare batteries! - Feb2003
Last month I was exploring the Janolan Caves and the guy in front of me
using a lovely Canon Eos ran out of battery! Batteries never ever run out
when you are at the Battery shop..... always when you are in the middle of a
photo opportunity 500 feet underground! Always pack a spare and don't forget
batteries for the meter, flash and any other equipment that requires them.
Its a good idea to pack an extra spare if you are going into very cold
climates for any length of time as battery performance is severely reduced
in conditions of extreme cold. Try to keep the spares in a warm place, like
in a pocket close to the skin.
Always remember, dispose of your used batteries carefully, as they represent
a hazard to wildlife. I visited an Australian Sea Lion colony in January and
found a camera battery carelessly left in the sand which could have easily
killed a mature Sea Lion if ingested....
-
A word about bracketing... - Feb2003
Occasionally you come across that once in a blue moon shot. It is a good
idea to ensure you get an image you can use by bracketing. If you are fairly
sure of your exposures, then bracket one third stop either side if your
camera is capable. If not then a half stop will suffice. If the light is
really tricky, and the shot is a must have, then take additional shots at
one stop either side. This will ensure you get a good exposure, particularly
when shooting transparency film. Film is the cheapest part of any Holiday
and it is always disappointing when you get home and see the results only to
hear yourself say.... If only I had taken that with half stop less......
Always try to bracket using the same routine, as that way when you get the
roll back, you can inspect the results and learn from your mistakes....
I always shoot correct exposure, under then over.
-
Keep your gear dry! - Feb2003
One of the biggest enemies
of Photographic equipment is humidity... Lenses and cameras can in the right
environment grow mould literally overnight. There are two things you should do
to ensure this never happens to you. Firstly, if possible, store your gear in
a hermetically sealed case such as a
Pelican.
Secondly, even if using a hermetically sealed case, remove any moisture from
the air in the bag by using a good indicating
silica gel. The indicating
gel changes colour from pink to blue and is available in 500g containers from
chemists. Sew a couple of small bags with Velcro enclosures and fill them with
the gel. When the Gel turns pink, it is exhausted and needs drying. Just put
it in the oven for a while and it will turn a deep blue indicating that is is
dry and ready for use again. Check the Gel monthly or weekly if you are in a
humid climate and change as necessary.
-
Inkjet Printers - printing your photos. - Apr2003
You
may have tried to print your favourite photo on your desktop inkjet printer
and been less than happy with the results. Several factors effect the quality
of the results and we will touch on some here. Firstly, you need a photo with
6 or more inks. Photo printers have 2 or more extra ink tanks which carry
reduces strength Magenta and Cyan with some also having a reduced strength
black tank as well. It is not possible to faithfully reproduce the tonal range
of a photograph with only 3 inks. Most importantly, you must use the correct
ICC profile for your device. An ICC profile is developed for a specific
printer, using a particular set of inks, and a specific paper. If you change
any of these variables, then the printed result may not match your original. I
get superb results from a Canon S900. I required additional longevity not
inherent in the standard Canon Photo Dyes and moved to an Archival Pigmented
Ink. I also print on Epson and Agfa photo paper which in effect meant that the
supplied Canon ICC profile was useless! I was very fortunate to have a friend
with the capability to re-profile the new combination and the results are
perfect. When preparing your image for print, you must ensure you have the
resolution and size correct. Use Adobe Photoshop or similar to adjust the Size
of the image to suit your print size. Resample the image only as a last
resort. Then adjust the resolution to around 300 LPI, resample only downwards
in resolution. Set up the print driver to use the correct profile for for
printer and you are done! Print the image and you are away!
-
Scanning your Images for Digital Printing - May2003
You
may be tempted to use your Flatbed Desktop Scanner to copy existing
photographs with a view to getting them printed at one of the new Digital
Labs. There are a few things you should know about the best way to do this.
Firstly, you need to determine the required size of the finished print. Most
new Labs have a maximum size of 12X18 inches. If you have a 6X4 original, and
you want it enlarged by 200% then you need to know how to set up the scanner
driver to achieve the optimum results. Many believe that if 300DPI is good,
then 1200DPI must be better!
Wrong! - All the extra data does is to consume machine resources and waste
time. In general, a 300DPI image at the finished size will give perfect
results. Using the example above, if we want to finish with a 300DPI file,
then we would scan the 6"X4" 200% at 600DPI which would result in a 12"X8"
final file at 300DPI. All we have to do then is use a program like photoshop
retouch and finish the image.
Typically, the following steps are helpful!
Retouch any defects using the Cloning Stamp tool
Do an Auto Contrast (not Auto Levels)
Un-sharp Mask
Ideally, save file as an 8bit tif to CDR if possible.
Happy Scanning!
PS. If you want the best results, send your transparency to either a prepress
trade-house or a reputable Pro Lab. Ask them if they use a drum scanner and if
they don't, try another place! You will be amazed at the quality difference!
-
Carry a Clean Lint Free Cloth (or 2).
I make it a habit to carry
at least one clean absorbent cloth with me in my kit. It can be useful for
many many tasks...
I use it to cover the camera in the event of light rain / mist / spray. You
can extend the shooting time significantly by covering the camera with a
cloth.
Cleaning mist from waterfalls from the front element/Filter. Sometimes the
quantity of water which hits the front of the lens makes a normal lens
cleaning cloth saturated in a short time.
Ever been caught with really muddy tripod feet... I mean really muddy! I have
and I have had to use the cloth to enable me to get the tripod back in the
car!
Use it moistened to wipe down the camera and lens after a day shooting on the
ocean. Yachting /Whale watching and other sea based activities can leave salt
on the gear which if left there will cause damage.
Have you ever dropped a piece of gear in the mud? well I have and the rag made
it so much easier to deal with the mess!
-
The Bean Pod...
If you are after a lightweight handy support for your
camera, try grabbing a pack of Zip Lock Bags from the supermarket, and a
Bean Bag refill from K-Mart or similar. Half fill the Zip Lock bag with
beans, squeeze the air out and zip it up. You can form the bag to work just
about anywhere, and it conforms to just about any shape. Great for compact
cameras, but the mid size bags also work great with SLR's. They are light as
a feather, and the small compact camera size fit neatly in your pocket!
-
Carry a Blower....
In these days of Digital Cameras, dust is an
increasing problem. I have not met a person who owns a digital SLR yet who
has not had issues with a dusty sensor. Even if you only changed lenses in a
clean room environment, dust still gets in as the lens breathes. As you zoom
or focus, the lens barrel changes volume and draws air in or out. This
inevitably draws small particles into the Camera body. Always read your
cameras manual before attempting to clean the sensor. In many cases,
there is no need to physically touch the cameras sensor, and the use of a
large blower bulb blows particles off the sensor and out of the camera body.
It is important to follow the manufacturers instructions carefully, as not
doing so may lead to damage of the sensor or even worse, the camera shutter.
If you are careful though, this is an easy and effective method of cleaning
a dusty sensor.
